EDITIONS M.R - the reincarnation of a dandy
about a decade ago, when the idea of fashion start-up came along and the explosion of Bobos (boheme-bourgeois) in Paris, a band of outsiders began to shape up a new phase of contemporary men’s fashion scene, offering new ideas and redefining how modern Parisian men dressed. slowly but surely, they’ve sprouted and grown, and one of them is Editions M.R.
a brand with many lives
it’s hard to talk about Editions M.R without its history, and what a history it was…
initially founded as Melinda Gloss in 2009 by childhood friends Mathieu de Ménonville and Rémi de Laquintane in Paris, the brand was inspired by the history of menswear, culture, travels and family memories. often produced in France or Europe for its proximity and quality, they made clothes based on their taste and the way they dress: elegant, timeless, slightly nonchalant with eclectic interests - all very Parisian, with a twist of bourgeois. as a menswear brand, the name “Melinda Gloss”, as ambiguous as it was, raised many eyebrows in the industry right from the beginning. nonetheless, their high quality clothes with heavy dose of rive gauche (left bank) allure managed to attract key retailers from Japan, Korea, France and the U.K. luckily, basic wardrobe aside, from very early on, they had one particular design that hit the jackpot, it was a double-breasted blouson with shearling shawl collar (as seen in the window below) which became so popular that it was on the back of many Parisian men for a few years, followed by many variations in the winters to come.
in 2015, with the capital from new investor and the opening of the first flagship in Paris, a perfect timing to rebrand. in the season of FW2016, the two young founders aptly named it Editions M.R (initial of their first name, but also acronym of “mister”). although with positive feedback, they parted way in 2017, de Laquintane has found his own namesake brand since.
a lot has changed in the men’s wear scene since the brand was launched nearly 10 years ago. when they created the brand, there wasn’t much in offer in the French men’s contemporary market. “it was hard to find clothes. I’m too tall for A.P.C. and can’t afford Hermès, so where was I supposed to go? since then, the men’s wear market has become a lot more dynamic, and the customer has evolved: there is a real curiosity for fashion. the male customer of today is looking for originality,” said de Ménonville.
last year, a new chapter has turned ...
a new join - Louis Wong, the first official creative director
after getting a master degree in art history, Louis Wong always knew he wanted to work in fashion, he looked for an internship and ended up landing at Louis Vuitton’s men studio working under Marc Jacobs. after 4.5 years, he joined A.P.C. in July 2005, he collaborated closely with founder Jean Touitou on both men’s and women’s lines. they worked well so much so that A.P.C. helped develop and produce his own men’s line "Louis W." under the brand, focusing on outerwear with 1970s masculine flair. after 14 years, his tenure at A.P.C. ended in april 2018, he then joined Editions M.R in spring 2019 as the brand’s first official creative director.
when Louis and I met, I immediately felt we shared this common sensibility, I’m hoping his creative direction will lead to developing more fabrics and styles, but will also add a touch of eccentricity and bring a fresh outlook to the brand.
- De Ménonville on Wong’s appointment.
the A.P.C. experience has definitely laid a foundation for his new role as creative director at Editions M.R.
when Louis first arrived at A.P.C, he rediscovered Paris’s 6th arrondissement. it was around the time of the baby rockers, aka Luxembourgeois, a nickname to describe these posh young boys back then. "I would go for lunch next to the Alsacienne [a prestigious local private school] and see all these kids smoking." the Parisian bad boy image that started at Louis W. lingered, he has now transcended and mixed with Editions M.R’s Parisian dandyism.
I am fond of the ultra-classic French aesthetic that Mathieu embodies, and I like the relaxed feel, the refined proportions. the idea is to push a radical but subtle eccentricity while staying true to the roots of Editions M.R.
- Louis Wong told WWD about his ideas on the brand.« Lords of the Dorms »
about ss2020, in their own words
Mathieu de Ménonville and Louis Wong present « Lords of the Dorms » for the 2020 spring-summer collection. it was inspired by the Ivy League’s aesthetic – the style of American campus and the universe of fraternity.
the movie « Dead Poet Society » by Peter Weir is used as the main reference. the collection takes its roots from the private school uniforms : stripped pants, sport shorts with elastic waist and club stripes, nautical jackets and light parkas. we also find some references from the world of fraternities in the use of Greek letters : the Sigma evokes the E from Editions M.R. It is used on our sweats and tee-shorts using silkscreen printing.
the summery atmosphere and the american youth from the 80s portrayed by the photograph Tina Barney play an important role in the collection. they inspire neutral colors, light pink, cream and an assortment that includes short sleeve shirts with an oversized cut that are either plain or covered with large and thin retro stripes from the seventies. shirts printed with traditional, cashmere patterns and nodes, cargo shorts with pockets and light sweater in jacquard knit or striped round up this style borrowed from the good American society.
we also have created new logos inspired from the old Parisian publishing houses and the calligraphied signs found in front of French bistrots.
these references enrich the French and classic silhouette from Editions M.R : linen pleaded high waisted pants worn with ample jackets, the light, dark and stripped traditional seersucker, the bright velvet and houndstooth pattern shirts.
with Louis in the house, instead of change, we’d call it an evolution. this season, visual powerhouse Aterlier Franck Durand and photographer Bruno Staub have been entrusted by de Ménonville and Wong on the latest reincarnation. the skinhead bad boy with a touch of BCBG, a spot-on image to express this new creative marriage.
kapok has been following both parties for a very long time, it is a pleasure to introduce Editions M.R’s neo-dandyism to our Hong Kong fans.
about the brand
Editions M.R came about from a desire to create a line of clothing for everyday wear, its singular characteristic lies in its distinctive choice of colours, volumes, and materials. with each collection we aim for simplicity and fluidity grounded in what is real, each piece serving a function, expressing a desire, reflecting a moment in time. we make clothes that are meant to be worn, worn out, handed down – owning just a few well-chosen items advocating a return to essentials.
Editions M.R is a collaborative effort driven by people and their love of beautiful things.
from the very beginning, we chose to collaborate with family run suppliers as well as base our operations in Europe. this choice is reflected in what we believe is our fair pricing, which lets us create lasting clothes for your wardrobe.
beautiful things are those we never tire of, those we hold dear. It’s the leather jacket we’ll still wear decades from now or that 1960s painting we were given after a particularly meaningful collaboration. things that become part of who we are and to which we give meaning.
- Mathieu de Ménonville
